Has New Orleans lost it's mojo?

I recently stayed in New Orleans over the Thanksgiving weekend. This made my third stay there in the last 15 years or so. This first two stays were pre-Katrina. I had a blast the first two times I went there. So much of a good time that I tried moving there (pre-Katrina) about a year after my stay. I loved the architecture & history and general "good vibes" I got from the people there. This last trip, however, just seemed lackluster. Perhaps it was the weather, since we did experience quite a bit of rain. The food we had was so-so and seemed expensive for what we were getting. I'm vegan, so the selection of restaurants available for me seems incredibly small. Service seemed lackluster at most restaurants. Our hotel was nice and the staff polite, so no complaints there. Nothing really seemed to stand out, though. Bourbon Street was full of clubs blaring rap (blues & jazz seemed nearly non-existant, as opposed to other trips to the area). The French Market was nearly 100% made in China junk. I was expecting at least a few artists and hand crafted items. It's very inconsistent which types of businesses take cash, credit cards, traveller's cheques (ie some Jackson Square artists take credit cards and mysteriously, some restaurants only take cash). I've never been anywhere else (even Europe) where so many businesses refuse traveller's cheques (which are supposed to be as good as cash). I'm saddened by what seems like the demise of the hospitality the area is known for and what just seems like a city that's given up hope.